US Edition Istanbul’s position on an ancient trade route between East and West means that its inhabitants are merchants – and shoppers – to their core. From Ottoman antiques and fine carpets to jewellery and belly-dancing costumes, Istanbul offers a wealth of all things Oriental.
But there’s more besides: the chic boutiques, vintage and “concept” stores of modern Istanbul give London and Paris a run for their money in terms of inventiveness and edge; and there are plenty of designer malls and streets to keep the label-hungry sated. But as ever, in this sprawling, car-choked metropolis, you need to know where to go.
Carpets and Kilims
Buying a carpet is an involved process and one which takes time, tea, manipulation, haggling and intuition. I recommend mid-range Arsah in Eminönü (Ebusuud Cd 48; 0090 212 526 5648; arsahcarpets.wordpress.com). Away from the clamour of the bazaar, near the Gulhane tram stop, it sells carpets, kilims, grainbags, suzanis and more. It also has a new street-level store, Huseyin in Istanbul, selling hammam towels, scarfs and jewellery, while the carpet shop is secreted in the basement.
The owner Huseyin is the carpet seller of carpet sellers – insouciant, charismatic, sarcastic, flamboyant, chain-smoking and a ladies’ man. I bought my first carpet from him – he won me over with the phrase: “Forget about the money. Money is like the grease on your palm. You wash it away – it comes back.”
Fabrics and linens
Linens, bedspreads, pillow covers, quilts and eiderdowns are as plentiful in the bazaar as sand in the desert: the danger is that you will lug them home to find they’re the wrong size. Pillows Store (Orta Kazazlar Sk 22, Grand Bazaar; 528 9974; pillowsstore.com), is actually just outside the Grand Bazaar and you might need to show the address to a local for directions, because it’s up a narrow alley. It has goods that can be made to measure – choose your material then specify the measurements for your cushion covers/duffel bags/dressing gowns/table runners. The owner, Nail, instructs his man upstairs on the sewing machine to whip it up for you in two hours.
The Grand Bazaar
Jewellery
Inside the Grand Bazaar, the owner-jeweller at Necef (Cevahir Bedesteni Sk 123; 513 0372) produces his Ottoman and nature-inspired creations at a tiny work station in the corner of the room. He also has a selection of vintage jewellery.
Tiny Cendereci 1863 (8 Bostanbasi Cd; 292 1863; cendereci.com) offers sexy modern pieces through a ninth-generation jeweller who studied with the Queen’s jewellery buyer – check out the studded bracelets.
For affordable modern pieces, try Mor (Turnacıbası Cd 10B; 292 8817) in the old European quarter.
Art and Antiques
For those with deep pockets, the best place for Oriental art and antiques is Sofa (Nuruosmaniye Cd 53A; 520 28 5051; kashifsofa.com), with three floors of seals, silverware, miniatures, embroidery, jewellery, sculptures, ceramics, statues, icons, clocks, engravings, and more. It’s been there since 1976 and is at the hub of the Istanbul art establishment.
For fine modern works, visit the shop of Nahide Buyukkaymakci in Cukurcuma (Faik Pasa Yokusu 7A; 292 6855), the artist who made the chandelier in the modern Sakirin mosque. Her leatherwork screens and hand-blown glass chandeliers are superb, and are displayed with works by other eminent Turkish artists.
Next month (November 19-25) Art Istanbul (artistanbul.org) will run alongside the city’s main art fair, Contemporary Istanbul (contemporaryistanbul.com), which features around 100 galleries and 600 artists who reflect the city’s busy art scene. Art Istanbul brings together the city’s museums, foundations and galleries for talks, exhibitions and openings. Events take place at the Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Istanbul offers a wealth of all things Oriental
Handmade shoes
Istanbul’s cobblers have a burgeoning reputation. I like Fanfinfon (Turnacibasi Cd 34A; 245 1036), to be found in the winding streets of Cukurcuma. Here, Zeynep Turuthan makes and sells jewel-hued cowboy boots, snakeskin Mary Janes, gold ankle boots, leopard-print brogues and more. The shelves of the shop are lined with leather in every colour of the rainbow and the smell of glue hangs in the air.
At the charmingly named Old Sandal in Galata (Serdari Ekrem Sk 10A; oldsandal.com.tr) you can find pretty, handmade and unique footwear, from boots and courts to sandals.Calligraphy
If calligraphy is your thing, Nick’s Calligraphy Corner (ic Bedesten Serif Aga Sk 24, Grand Bazaar; 513 5473; nickscalligraphy.com), in the Grand Bazaar, is the place to go. Here, since 1968, calligrapher Nick Merdenyan has been ornamenting dry leaves with Ottoman, Islamic, Jewish and Christian symbols, usually mixed up together. The results are spellbinding but not cheap (from $300/£190).
Furniture
Modern Tarih (Faik Pasa Cd 19; 292 7296; moderntarih.com) is in Cukurcuma, a fast-gentrifying area known to locals as yabancı köy – foreigner village – due to its popularity with creative exiles. This shop doesn’t bother with signage, so you have to keep an eye out for it, but inside is a chic Aladdin’s cave full of furniture from across Asia, especially China, Tibet and Mongolia, and apothecary tables, blanket boxes, intriguing light fittings and wall hangings. The Turkish owner Davit travels far and wide to bring back exotic booty.
Farther down the street is Varak Evi (Faik Pasa Yokusu 53-55; 245 6568), a workshop of artisans who restore Ottoman mirrors, chandeliers and furniture, with mixed French and Oriental influences. The shop front is next door on the same premises.
Ceramics
Em-Er (Takkeciler Sk 100; 514 2265; em-er.com), owned by a father and his two cheeky sons, is one of numerous ceramics shops in the Grand Bazaar, but it has its own factory where items can be made to order if you have a few days in the city. They have everything, and all of it is hand-painted, from tiles and ashtrays to breakfast bowls and vases.
Maps and prints
Galeri Alfa Antikacilik in Beyoglu (Faikpasa Yokusu, Fazilet Apt 43/2; 251 1672; galerialfa.com), owned by an art historian, Dr Ayse Yetiskin Kubilay, offers Ottoman-era antique, original and reproduction engravings and maps from 1493 to 1906. Prints start at £12.50. Also for sale here are tiny toy soldiers – Ottomans wearing fezs and brandishing bayonets – plus harem girls and belly dancers.
Food and spices
The Spice Bazaar (also known as the Egyptian Bazaar) near Galata Bridge in Eminönü is small compared with the Grand Bazaar, but is packed with excellent delis and shops selling Turkish delight, packs of apple tea, honeycombs, cheeses, dried nuts and fruit, stuffed figs, caviar, coffee, spices, and an incredible range of herbal teas for every complaint and condition. Wander at will.
Concept stores
Armaggan in Nuruosmaniye (Nuruosmaniye Cd 65; 522 4433; armaggan.com) issues limited-edition designs inspired by Anatolia and has opened a seven-floor emporium near the Grand Bazaar. Its design pieces, carpets and textiles, fine foods, jewellery, and incredible collection of clothes inspired by Ottoman garb, are all home-grown.
On-site is the YESAM culinary arts centre, devoted to preserving the culinary traditions of Turkey by reviving lost dishes. Don’t miss the Art Galleries, where all the work is by Turkish artists. Atelier 55 (Serdar-i Ekrem Sk 55; 3255; atelier-55.com) is another spot-on concept store that mixes clothes, jewellery, homewares and art.
Hot Turkish labels
Around the Galata Tower it’s all hip bars, pavement cafés, tiny boutiques and some of Turkey’s up-and-coming fashion names. Bahar Korçan (Serdar-i Ekrem Sk 9; 243 7320; baharkorcan.org) is the coolest woman on the street. Her decision to move her funky layered women’s dresses to Serdar-i Ekrem Caddesi started a trend.
Building (Serdar-i Ekrem Cd 27A; 243 0717; building.com.tr) gathers directional, mainly Turkish designers under one roof, from Selda Sahbaz and Zeynep Tosum to Ayse Deniz, My Best Friends and Kith and Kin.
Arzu Kaprol (Serdar-i Ekrem Sk 22, Komando Apt; 252 7571; arzukaprol.net), a habituée of the fashion shows, has also jumped on the bandwagon, opening a glamorous outpost of her Nisantasi store.
Elsewhere, Istanbul has some interesting ateliers where seamstresses cut patterns while you skim the rails. Havva in Cihangir (Faikpasa Sk 25A; 245 6098; havva.com.tr) specialises in occasion dresses and shirts inspired by pages ripped out of magazines. You can choose from a charming, hand-sketched selection of designs (or off the rail) then get your piece adapted to suit.
Label shopping
The well-heeled district of Nisantasi is where the fashionistas roam. Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi is a Bond Street equivalent that mixes international and Turkish brands (Hakan Yildirim, Arzu Kaprol, Cengiz Abazoglu).
The department store Beymen (Istinye Park, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi) is a good place to find everything under one roof; or try Beymen Blender, its sister store, which stocks diffusion lines of labels from Chloe to Marc Jacobs (Karakol Sk 10; 373 4880; blender.com.tr).
South of Kadiköy and Moda on the city’s Asian side, Badat Caddesi is a local spot for high-end shopping. Drop into Vakko at number 422, for men’s and women’s wear.
Personal Shopping
If you need a guiding hand in the bazaars, you cannot go wrong with an American called Kathy Hamilton (istanbulpersonalshopper.com). Personable and amusing, Kathy is a Turkish speaker and in with all the shops (without taking a cut). She can open up the foodie, artisanal and indie sides of the city, and is a supremo in the bazaars, guiding you to the best place for any home-grown item, from textiles (carpets, kilims, suzanis, kaftans) to towels, linens, ceramics, scarves and more; she’ll also guide you to local haunts for lunch. She charges £158, regardless of whether you’re alone or with a small group.
Mall shopping
When you’ve had your fill of Oriental design, it’s time to head for the city’s modern malls which cover everything from high-end to high-street. Funky Istinye Park (Istinye Bayiri Cd 73 Sariyer; 345 5555; istinyepark.com) is a mini village populated by Bond Street-style stores under one roof – with golf carts available to help heavily laden customers back to their cars. Kanyon (Buyukdere Caddesi 185, Levent; 353 5300; kanyon.com.tr) has everything from Harvey Nichols to Wagamama – but you could be in London.
DID YOU KNOW?
Istanbul is one of the world's largest cities by population (13.5 million) within the city limits
Istanbul essentials
GETTING THERE
Pegasus (flypgs.com) flies from Stansted to Istanbul Sabiha Gokcen from £160 return.
PACKAGE
Elixir Holidays (020 7722 2288; elixirholidays.com) offers three-night breaks in Istanbul from £990 per person, including scheduled flights, private transfers and breakfast. To find out more about Turkey visit gototurkey.co.uk.
THE INSIDE TRACK
Sign up with Istanbul Secret (e-istanbul.dailysecret.com), which will email you daily with an enticing nugget of information about the city, such as a little-known park, spa or shop.
A hammam is an unmissable Istanbul experience. Clear an afternoon and check into the new Aya Sofya Hamami, next door to the Aya Sofya (Bab-i Humayun Cd 1; ayasofyahamami.com), and be pummelled and scrubbed in style.
Istanbul is not known for its Greek monuments, but don’t miss the Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, lost in the suburb of Fatih; it’s a Byzantine jewel, with superb mosaics (choramuseum.com).
The city has a thriving art scene: don’t miss the Istanbul Modern (istanbulmodern.org/en). Istanbul is also hosting its first Design Biennial until December 12 (tasarimbienali.iksv.org/en).
THE BEST HOTELS
Istanbul!place Apartments £
Seven self-catering apartments (sleeping two to seven) in edgy, of-the-moment Galata provide affordable, compact, yet chic footholds in the centre of the action (UK reservations 01905 570877; istanbulplace.com; doubles from €130/£103 per night).
The House Hotel Bosphorus ££
This year-old hotel has given a 19th-century building a glamorous modern refit. It has a magnificent position and great views on the Bosporus in the lively Ortaköy district. The House Hotel group also has hotels in bourgeois Nisantasi and trendy Galata (Salhane Sk 1; 212 327 7787; thehousehotel.com/the-house-hotel-bosphorus; double b & b from €179/£142).
W Hotel ££££
The W Istanbul, a stone’s throw from ritzy Nisantasi, has revived a historic row of houses which are now filled with restaurants, cafés and galleries. Good service and breakfast buffet, and the bar and restaurant have a buzzy vibe (Suleyman Seba Cd 22; 381 2121; wistanbul.com.tr; double b & b from €292/£231).
THE BEST RESTAURANTS
5Kat £
The “Fifth Floor” is a funky apartment-set restaurant, with a good view, serving a hotch-potch of Western and Asian food (Sogancı Sk 7, Kat 5; 293 3774; 5kat.com).
Nar Lokantasi ££
The city’s best new all-Turkish restaurant is at the top of the Armaggan concept store. Set in a sleek rooftop space, it offers a fresh, light take on Anatolian cuisine. Sit at a table outside on the terrace and enjoy fresh salads, crunchy pide and seasonal dishes (Nuruosmaniye Cd 65; 522 2800; narlokantasi.com/en/).
Okka £££
The menu at the W’s new meat-and-mezze restaurant has been perfected by a chef (Tolga Atalay) obsessed with the magic of charcoal, ash, steam and fire: the result is superb kebabs, among other things (Suleyman Seba Caddesi 22; 381 2121; okka.com.tr).